A near-death experience

My visit to the Upper Seti hydropower project will forever be etched in my memory, but for the most terrifying reason – I almost lost my life. This site visit, which was meant to be routine, turned into a harrowing brush with death in the unforgiving waters of the Seti River. Located about 20 km north of Pokhara, the Upper Seti project lies in a rugged, remote region, where nature's raw power is both breathtaking and perilous.

Day 1 (15 April 2019): The Journey Begins

We began our trip like any other – a group of colleagues traveling to Pokhara in a Hilux, eager to conduct our site visit. After a pleasant lunch in Pokhara, we continued to Karuwa village for dinner and our overnight stay. The homestay owner offered us a taste of deer meat, which initially gave us pause, as we were near the Annapurna Conservation Area where deer are protected. Yet, curiosity won over, and we sampled the meal, unaware of the life-threatening adventure that awaited.

Day 2 (16 April 2019): Navigating Dangerous Terrain

The next day was filled with the kind of challenges that are common for hydropower site visits. No access roads, steep topography, and narrow foot trails that end abruptly were nothing new to me. After over a decade in the hydropower field, I had grown accustomed to trekking through harsh landscapes. The locals had built temporary log bridges to help us cross the river, and we relied on these to navigate the route. Upper Seti's terrain was as difficult as expected – the river flowed fast and steep, and each bridge crossing over the rushing water was a reminder of the hazards.

Day 3 (17 April 2019): A Near-Fatal Fall

The third day was when disaster struck. We had planned to visit the surge tank area, and again, we needed to cross the Seti River on the log bridges constructed by locals. Though heights made me uneasy due to my poor vision, I had crossed many such bridges the day before without issue. However, that day something went terribly wrong. Perhaps it was a lapse in concentration, slippery logs, or my worn-out boots – whatever the cause, I slipped and fell into the river's vicious current.

I’m not a strong swimmer, and the Seti's powerful flow made it impossible to stay afloat. Every attempt to swim was futile. I was dragged under, helplessly fighting against the current. As I struggled, my thoughts went to my family – my parents and my wife, with whom I had just begun a new chapter of life. Somehow, both my hands got wedged between two boulders, which stopped my deadly descent. But I was still at the mercy of the river, my grip weakening, while I floated, feet unable to touch the ground.

I saw my colleague on the bank and tried to shout for help, but no words came out. With all the strength I had left, I managed to call out. He, along with the local villagers, rushed to my aid, but no one dared enter the river. Instead, they cut down a tree and extended it towards me, giving me something to hold onto. Finally, I was dragged to safety.

Aftermath and Reflection

Though I had been pulled from the water, my ordeal wasn’t over. The irony hit me hard when I realized I still had to cross those precarious log bridges to get to the other side of the river and back to camp. Exhausted and shaken, I trudged on, only to discover I had lost my glasses and phone during the accident. Navigating the narrow trails back to Karuwa village without proper vision was a challenge in itself.

I contacted my office and was advised to return immediately. We left the site in a dump truck, as our vehicle was stranded on the other side of the river. That night in Pokhara, I walked by the peaceful Phewa Lake, trying to process the terrifying ordeal I had survived. The next morning, I flew back to Kathmandu, the flight delayed as usual, but I hardly cared. I slept for hours upon returning home, deeply grateful to be alive.

Although my office suggested I take some time off, I declined. The best way for me to move past the trauma was to dive back into work and be occupied. Yet, the memory of Seti Khola – and how close I came to being swept away forever – will always stay with me. Without the villagers and their quick thinking, this story could have had a much darker ending.